Fri 10 Aug 2007
Hello Friends and Wine Lovers!
Welcome to the Carpe Vinum Newsletter of the Week and Tasting Announcement, new and improved with an experimental slightly-larger text! (Online posting notwithstanding). It’s an exciting week, this second week of August, and time for the Carpe Vinum Annual Symposium of German and Austrian Wines! Or at least that’s how I was advertising it. But once I started choosing the wines I was interested in pouring, I realized it wasn’t fair to either Germany or Austria to combine the two wine regions into one tasting. The regions just have different enough wines to each have their own tasting. So this week, rather than Germany and Austria, it’s just Germany. Why Germany first? Well, I drew their names out of a hat and Germany came first. Okay, not really. No hat. Reverse-alphabetical order? Okay, it was random.
Speaking of random, German wines are so totally not random. In fact, the German wine laws are so confusing and fascinating and structured, I figure that’s a good place to start. Well, actually we’ll start with Riesling. To know German wines is to know that the majority of the German production is Riesling, and makes up the majority of German wine exports. Why Riesling? The grape variety can perform under stress, with a minimum of moisture, and is frost resistant. So it does well in colder climates and harsher conditions, both of which Germany possesses, all while showing distinct terroir of the growing regions and is also suitable for long aging. The more Northern wine regions of Germany grow predominantly Riesling and some other white grapes and the Southern districts have a few more reds mixed in. We’ll get to the reds later.
Okay, I heard a few of you roll over when you saw the mention of Riesling. This is a constant battle everyone in the wine industry has to deal with. Over the years there have been many bad and overly sweet, perhaps sugary, probably domestic Rieslings that have tainted the name of this noble varietal. Keep in mind that although Rieslings can have higher-than-normal residual sugar at harvest, vinification reduces this and acid levels balances this out. So although Rieslings may tend to have a touch more sweetness than many white wines, most are vinified dry (“Trocken” in German wines) or otherwise are reasonably balanced.
This leads us to the next confusing subject of the German wine laws and classification system. (I hope to make this easy and painless.) This complex system gives designations to the ripeness of the grapes at harvest as measured by sugar levels. Keep in mind this isn’t the sugar level of the finished wine. The winemaker has control over that, and can vinify them dry. The designations, from regular-harvest to late-harvest are:
Tafelwein (Literally “table wine” – rarely imported)
Qualitatswein or QbA (most widely available)
Kabinett (also widely available)
Spatelese (late-harvest)
Auslese (late-late-harvest)
Beerenauslese (late-late-late-harvest)
Trockenbeerenauslese (late-late-late-late-harvest-and-probably-rotten)
Eiswein (way-late-harvest-and-rotten-and-frozen-and-harvested-by-hand)
In essence, this classification is telling you that the grapes were able to attain a certain ripeness. Generally, and what they’re getting at with this, the higher the sugar level indicates more ripeness. With more ripeness you have more flavor. In theory. The first five categories make dry to off-dry wines, for the most part. Auslese could be pushed into the dessert-wine zone. And the last three make dessert wines, considering the sugar levels are so high at harvest that the fermentation halts before all the sugar is gone. Also, the last three are most-likely infected with the noble rot (botrytis cinerea or, in German, Edelfaule), partially or wholly raisinated, and in the case of the Eiswein, frozen. Also, also, they are picked by hand, and thusly, terribly expensive.
Whew. That wasn’t so bad, was it? It seems so structured and German, doesn’t it? At any rate, it makes more of an interesting tasting to try these different designations together to see what they might mean in practice. So I grabbed Rieslings in the Qba, Spatlese and Auslese categories. I could have run the full gamut, but that would be missing out on a lot more that Germany has to offer. German reds!
There aren’t a lot of reds grown in the region, and the ones that are tend to be consumed within Germany. The main red varietal in Germany is the Pinot Noir. I think we all know that varietal, by now. But considering its popularity everywhere, and scarcity over there, we don’t see a lot of it coming to this country. There are a number of other red varieties, too numerous to mention them all, and also scarcely grown. I found one of these oddball wines, a Dornfelder, which was apparently made from a grape engineered to withstand Germany’s harsher and colder climate, yet still produces a firm, tannic wine.
Also, we’ve got a Gewurztraminer! For those of you who just rolled over at the sound of that, go back and see the first comments about Riesling.
Austria, you get your own tasting next month. California’s Governor would be proud.
So Friday, August 10th, between 4:30 and 9:00 PM it’s:
Germany!!!
Valkenberg 2005 Gewurztraminer, Pfalz
Schloss Wallhausen 2005 Two Princes Riesling QbA, Nahe
Weingut Ackermann 2005 Riesling Spatlese Zeltinger Schlossberg, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer
Villa Wolf 2006 Rose de Pinot Noir, Pfalz
Wachtenbeurg Winzer 2005 Dornfelder, Pfalz
More Germany!!!
Schloss Saarstein 1999 Serriger Riesling Auslese, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer
Weinhaus Heger 2005 Pinot Noir, Baden
A stellar deal at $10 for the First 5, $6 for the Extra 2 Premium Pours.
Hope to see you here!
Seize the Wine!
(See how I didn’t make any cracks about Kraftwerk or David Hasselhoff? Whoops. Except for this. Dang!)
Next Friday tasting is French Alsace!
M